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The Top 3 Most Asked Questions About Clean

Chemical engineering is as old as the process industries. BCC Site is a manufacturing facility that produces more than 10.000 mt/month liquid chemicals, and serves as a supply center for EMENA region detergent, i&i cleaning, construction, textile and water treatment industries. Danish oil and tung oil dry more quickly than linseed oil. Danish and tung oil finishes are far superior to the traditional linseed oil; linseed oil is sticky and hard to apply. You must remove all excess oil; there should be no oil — or, if you’re using a linseed finish, only a very thin film of oil — on the surface of the wood. To complete the finish, apply one or two coats of paste wax, as above. Make a thin paste of vinegar and salt, then spread the paste on rust stains in fabric. Then wipe the waxed surface firmly with a clean cloth to remove excess wax. On any surface, work carefully, and don’t remove more of the finish than you have to. In this article, we’ll discuss this and other simple techniques to help you remove stains, blushing, and other discoloration from the surfaces of wooden furniture. Varnish, penetrating resin, shellac, lacquer, paste wax, and oil were all created to help protect furniture wood.

Close the door and allow the paste to work for eight to 10 hours. Apply the oil — Danish oil, tung-oil sealer, linseed oil, or the Mary Roalman mixture — with a clean cheesecloth pad, using a circular or figure-eight motion to work it into the wood. One of the best of them is the Mary Roalman finish, which consists of equal parts of boiled linseed oil, turpentine, and natural varnish. Before applying the finish, clean the piece of furniture thoroughly with a tack cloth. To complete the finish, apply one or two more coats of wax, as above. Danish oil and tung-oil sealers may require only one additional application, but linseed-oil finishes should be given 10 to 20 additional coats. When the first coat of oil is completely dry, apply further coats until the finish is rich and hard. The classic linseed oil finish is a mixture of equal parts of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. Mix the linseed oil finishes several days before you use them. Any oil finish must be reapplied periodically, but Danish and tung oil require far less reapplication than linseed oil. In most cases, they can be reapplied after 12 to 24 hours; follow the manufacturer’s specific instructions.

Danish oil and tung oil may not require such extensive rubbing; follow the manufacturer’s specific instructions. Wood to be finished with oil must be thoroughly sanded to even out the open pores to create a smooth surface. Wood to be finished with paste wax must be thoroughly sanded and sealed with a coat of thinned shellac. Apply paste wax sparingly with a clean, lint-free cloth pad, rubbing the wax on with a circular motion to form a thin, even coating. Continue rubbing for about 15 minutes; as you rub, the warmth you generate will help the oil penetrate into the wood. Finally, after thoroughly rubbing all surfaces, wipe the piece of furniture clean with a clean cloth. Oil is penetrating and durable; it is water- and alcohol-resistant, and gives wooden furniture an attractive natural sheen and texture. Rub the oil firmly into the wood with the heels of your hands, working along the grain.

When the sealer is completely dry, rub the wood along the grain with No. 0000 steel wool; then clean the piece of furniture thoroughly with a tack cloth. Then wipe off all excess oil. Apply the stain evenly along the grain with a clean brush or cloth, and let it stand for 10 to 15 minutes; then wipe off the excess with a clean cloth. Tung-oil finishes are available in semigloss and high-gloss forms, and also in several stain colors. Linseed-oil finishes must dry for about a week; drying takes longer in very humid weather. Do not recoat a linseed-oil finish until it’s completely dry, with no trace of stickiness. Any repair that involves removing the damaged finish completely — deep scratches, gouges­, burns, or any other damage — also involves refinishing the repair area. Removing stains from wooden furniture involves identifying the depth of the damage and applying the appropriate repair technique, ranging from simple cleaning to more complex refinishing.